Adding Big Volume to Your Blowout – Video Tutorial

Here is the second My Hair Fix video tutorial! I would post them more often, but I am realizing I am a much better hairstylist than video editor. Our last tutorial was recreating a salon blowout at home, so for this video I wanted to take it one step further by showing you how to add dramatic volume that will last all night.

I mention it in the video, but it’s worth saying again: using the right styling product is the key to creating a long lasting look. When you purchase product from your stylist, be sure to have her take the time to educate you on how to use it to get the result you want.

Some of you have left comments about the video topics you want to see next. Thanks! It’s been noted and we are working on it. Hopefully this process will get more streamlined so you can have a entire video library at your fingertips!

My Hair Fix – Volume Blowout Video

PS – I also want to give a big shout out to Inti St Clair, the photographer who took some great photos, giving me the new clean, pretty picture for the blog! She does amazing work! Check her out!

Quick DIY Blow Out

It’s our first vlog! My clients are always asking, how can I get my hair to look like it does when I walk out of your salon? To answer that, I’ve created this step-by-step video. Watch as I coach Fix Salon model Stephanie through a do-it-yourself quick blow out at home.

Screen Shot 2013-06-23 at 1.42.47 PM

Video: Quick DIY Blow Out


Here are a few additional tips to keep in mind.

1. When you think your hair is dry, keep drying.

Have you ever taken the time to blow out your hair only to have it frizz out a few hours later? Chances are it wasn’t completely dry. When you think your hair is dry, continue to dry it for another 5 minutes or so. Lots of times there is still moisture in the interior of the hair. Unless all the moisture in your hair is completely dried out, your hair will revert to its natural texture.

2. Practice makes perfect.

For the first couple of blow outs, find a time where you are not in a rush and make sure you have all the right tools and products in front of you. You might assume that as a hairstylist, drying my own hair is easy. Believe me, it isn’t. It used to take me 45 minutes to get a perfect finish. Now, because of practice, I can do it in about 20 – 25 minutes.

3. Pick your tools and products wisely.

The difference between so-so hair and show stopping hair is highly dependent on the right products and tools. You just can’t get a salon-looking blow out at home without using the same tools used by the pros. For a quick reference of everything we used in the video, see below. All products are available at Fix, either in stock or by special order. If Fix Salon is far from you, you can find these items online.

Tools and Product Resources:

My favorite tools for a DIY Blow Out

You now have everything you need to know to get a fantastic looking blow out at home. Want a one-on-one blow dry class like Stephanie had? Give us a call. We do that!

Don’t miss another hair post or video. Click the RSS button to get all the hair facts delivered right to your inbox.

Bangs – Your New Best Accessory

Bangs. Do you want them? Do you have them? How are they working for you? Love them? Hated them? Never had the nerve to commit? Maybe someone down the road told you that you should never have bangs. Full fringe, side swept, or baby–they are all a great accessory. They can bring attention to features you love and distract from those you don’t. If you ever wanted to make a big change to your hairstyle, but didn’t want to cut it off, adding a fringe is the next best thing.

In the US most people say “bang”, everywhere else, including most of us in the hair industry, say “fringe”, like decorative fringe you would find on a lamp, but better. For this post I am going to use the word fringe. After our time together, hopefully, you will adopt the term as well. That way, there is no confusion when someone says “she’d like a bang”.

In order to talk about what type of fringe is perfect for you, it’s important to know your face shape. Guess what? I wrote and entire post about how to identify your face shape just so I could write this post about fringe. Here’s the info. If you haven’t read it yet, take a minute and do so before you move on…… Ok, up to speed? Here we go!

First, face shape as it relates to fringe. Most articles about face shape claim that oval is the perfect face shape. A big sigh for all of us who aren’t oval. Here’s my take on this. All face shapes are great, and I’m not sure that we need to be spending our waking hours trying to create the illusion of something we don’t have. Some of us are very proud of specific features of our face. Maybe you have your dad’s nose, the family chin, or amazing cheek bones. Fringe can bring more focus to these features. Rather than tell you what type of fringe gives the “illusion” of oval and what fringe doesn’t, I want to focus on how fringe can really be the key to accentuating the things you love best about your face or de-accentuating the things you’re not crazy about.

There’s also the issue of hairline. Some of us have high or maybe low hairlines, or maybe a cowlick or swirl that has made it seem like having a fringe is an unattainable goal. I’m here to tell you that those features shouldn’t discourage you from fringing away! If you follow my guide, you will be on your way and wowing your friends with your new hair style!

(Pardon the poor rendition of fringe. I wanted to show you all the options for each face shape. Here we go!)

Fringe for Oval Face Shapes

Oh Megan Fox, you’re so pretty it must suck to be you. Megan has an oval face shape which means every fringe looks great on her. Side, center or full they all add interest to her look.

Fringe for Round Face Shapes

Ginnifer Goodwin has a round face shape. This means the silhouette is shorter than oval, with soft round lines. She does a great job with her hair to work with the shape. To give the illusion of length, fringe should be side or center swept. Full fringe can accentuate the roundness. If you have a round face and want a full fringe, it should be cut so that it is slightly shorter in the middle. This will give just a enough length to make it work.

Fringe for Square Face Shapes

Here is a perfect example of a square face shape. Widest at the temples and jaw line with angular lines. To de-accentuate the hard lines, some softness is needed. Side fringe is best for this job. This is also a good opportunity to have a few face framing pieces of length to soften the jaw line. To accentuate a square face shape, a full, wide fringe is best. You can see how the lines mimic the jaw line, emphasizing the shape. Fringe with a center part adds length, but it also tends to emphasize a square jaw line.

Fringe for Triangle Face Shapes

Minni Driver has a great triangle face shape identified by the strong square jaw line and narrowing cheek bones and temples. Again, a side fringe will give added width through the top to create balance. Fringe with a center part will add length but accentuate a square jaw line. A full fringe, like square face shape, mimics the lines of the jaw accentuating the strength. If you are determined to go with a full fringe it needs to be cut extra wide and should “C” shape, being shorter in the center and longer on the sides.

Fringe for Oblong Face Shapes

SJP is one of the most famous celebrity oblong faces. Oblong means that the shape is longer than oval and narrow through the sides. The temples and cheek bones are close to the same width. To de-accentuate the length, fringe, particularly side or full fringe, is your best friend. A center fringe can accentuate the length. It’s like building vertical lines on vertical lines causing the eye to go up and down. In terms of hair style, fullness on the sides will take away from the long lines while volume on top will give added length.

Fringe for Heart Shape Faces

A heart face shape is widest through the temple area and narrows through the cheek bones and chin. To take away from the width, side or center fringe is the best choice. Full fringe is an option, but the width should not be wider than the cheek bones. A straight line in the fringe is better than a curved shape if you want to detract from the length of the chin. Reese has worn a variety of fringes but does it in a way that always makes her look fresh and pretty.

Fringe for Diamond Face Shapes

Scarlett has a diamond face shape, meaning she is narrow in the temple and chin with width through her cheek area. To accentuate this face shape, a fringe that splits in the center will exaggerate the length. To add more softness or roundness, a side swept fringe is perfect. It offsets the angles of the diamond and diagonal width to the shape. A full fringe can work, but be careful of how it balances with the cheek bones and the chin. A full fringe should be cut straight across to balance the shape.

Fringe with a High Hairline

Let’s take a look at Christina Ricci. Notice how she has a high forehead with a heart shape face. Look at the way fringe has brought the focus back to her face instead of her forehead. The secret is that the fringe needs to be heavy enough to weigh itself into place. If it doesn’t have enough thickness, it will split in unwanted places. I also love how the fringe has been angled to bring our her cheek bones.

Fringe on a Low Hairline

Fergie has a low hairline. Many people with this feature think they can’t wear a fringe. So untrue! It’s just about where the fringe comes from that makes it work. In the second image, Fergie is wearing a false fringe, and while it is not the perfect example, it does give an exaggerated look at how this can work. First, the fringe needs to be heavy. Secondly, it needs to come from far back in the hairline. This way it disguises how low the hairline really is. If someone with a low hairline wants a light fringe, it almost accentuates the lowness of the hairline. So if you’re going to do it, you need to go full-out and really commit to it.

Final Hot Fringe Tips

Cowlicks and swirls. When I consult with a client about adding a new fringe, I always check for any cowlicks or swirls in the potential fringe area. Almost all of us have something like this around our hairline, but it doesn’t have to stop you from adding your new fringe accessory. Two tips. 1. Create a heavier fringe to add weight which can overpower the direction of the swirl. 2. Be sure you know how to redirect that swirl and gain control of your fringe. Here’s what you need to do:

To redirect the swirl affecting your fringe

1. The wetter the fringe, the easier it is to redirect the growth. Therefore, your fringe should always be dried first.

2. You need styling product. A medium hold gel, mousse or spray gel will work perfectly. Place a small amount at the base of your fringe before you dry and style it. This will help “set” it into place and give it the ability to stay throughout the day. I love Redken’s Velvet Gelatine 07 because not only does it hold, it also creates a high shine, smells great and protects hair from humidity.

3. Finish with a light weight, dry hair spray. Redken’s Forceful 23 or Control Addict 28 are great choices. This final step ensures that your fringe will stay where you put it. I recommend a dry aerosol spray because it will not “freeze” the fringe into place, but it will give it memory so when it moves it will have a tendency to go back to where it needs to be.

Keeping your fringe fresh daily. While you may not wash your hair everyday, washing your fringe is a quick and easy way to freshen your look and let your fringe recover from a night in bed. I usually pull the rest of my hair back in a ponytail and do it right in the sink. I use a pea size amount of shampoo, like Redken’s All Soft, to lather it up. To save time, I usually skip the conditioner and go straight for the styling product.

Ok! There you have it! Hopefully I have covered all the bases when it comes to fringe. It really is the easiest way to make a noticeable change to your hairstyle. The secret to looking amazing is simply knowing how to work with your face shape and hairline. The next time you are considering a new bag, necklace, or lipstick, maybe you should be considering a new fringe instead!

Healthy Hair During Your Workouts

Keep your hair in shape
Over the last couple of years, I have slowly become addicted to my workouts. I’m fortunate to live across the street from Community Fitness, the best group exercise facility in Seattle. As the list of classes I take grows, I find that I am in an endless cycle of ponytails, sweaty hair, shampooing hair, blowing hair out and back to ponytails. In essence, my hair is getting a workout just as much as I am. So for all of us girls trying to stay in shape and keep our hair looking good, here are a few pointers.

Best Hairstyles for Breaking a Sweat

Braids–The best way to get your hair out of the way and reduce pulling and breakage is to braid it. Nice for us, braids have come back! If you don’t know how to french braid your own hair, check out this YouTube video from makupwearables. It’s a great tutorial and she has tons of other braid styles. While your are perfecting your skill, you can always ask a friend to braid for you.

Ponytails–Personally, I am a pony tail girl. I want it back, I want it tight, and I don’t want to have to fuss with it throughout my workout. The downside to a ponytail is potential breakage. Your hair type will determine how much breakage you may or may not get in this style. If you have fine, fragile, or heavily chemically altered (highlighted blondes listen up), ponytails can definitely do some damage. When you have your hair down take a look at it from the back. Many times there is a fine line of breakage that runs horizontally through the hair. If you see that line you will notice that it is probably exactly where you put the elastic band in your hair. Sometime the breakage is so extreme that it almost adds an interior “layer” to the hair. Eek! For those of us with medium to thick, course hair our hair can stand up to a little pressure, but it is still important to be thoughtful of your pony process.

1. When choosing a hair band for your pony, be sure that it is either covered in fabric/threading or is an “ouch less” plastic that easily slides out of your hair.

2. Vary the location of the pony tail. If it’s high one day, make it low the next.

3. Instead of creating an actual pony tail consider making it a hair puff. Meaning, as you are putting your hair through the hair band on the last round only pull through the middle of the length. This redistributes the tension placed on the hair which helps reduce breakage.

4. Never put in a tight pony when your hair is wet. Wet hair stretches almost 50% more than dry hair. When you put it in a tight tension pony the tendency is that the hair is stretched to its breaking point, a quick way to create unwanted “layers” in your hair.

5. When your workout is over, take out that pony–especially if your hair is sweaty. It goes back to number four. Wet hair = more stretching = potential breakage. Or alternately, loosen the tension so it’s not pulling as much.

6. If you wear your hair up at night go old school with a scrunchy. No, it’s not pretty, but if your hair is up in a hair band at night and your tossing and turning imagine how that hair is being stretched. A scrunchy will get it out of the way but have much more give in the tension.

Products That Will Protect Your Hair While You Perfect Your Form

Depending on how much you workout, you may want to consider using specialty products to revitalize and protect your hair. Here is a list of my favorites:

  • Redken Hair Cleansing Cream–This is a deep cleaning shampoo that should be used alternately with your daily shampoo. If you shampoo every day your would use the Hair Cleansing Cream once a week. If you shampoo every other day, then once every other week. It’s perfect to remove any build up created by your hard work. It brings the sparkle back and gives the opportunity for your other styling products to perform effectively on a clean surface.
  • Redken Anti-Snap–Anti-Snap is pretty self explanatory. It is a leave-in treatment conditioner that helps to strengthen your hair and reduce split ends. It also works as a heat protectant which is great when you are frequently blow drying your hair. It’s light enough to work for all hair types and can be layered with your other daily styling products.
  • Redken Diamond Oil–The name alone makes this product sound amazing. The newest product in the Redken Haircare family, Diamond Oil is a silicone free combination of coriander, camellia, and apricot oils that penetrate deep into the hair strand. The effects of this product create hair that is 2x less likely to break and 3x shinier than when it is not used. Because it is silicone free, it also works as a skin moisturizer making it the perfect double duty workout partner.

You don’t have to sacrifice beautiful hair in pursuit of your fitness goals. By using the right tools and products, you can ensure that outside the gym your hair looks as good as your body.

Color Correction – Christin’s Path to Peach

Pastel hair color–it’s everywhere right now! We’ve seen pictures of celebrities or images online of pinks, lavenders, baby blues. At Fix, it is a common request from our clients of all ages. To do it successfully, the process aligns itself with a classic color correction process. It can be time-consuming and expensive, but it certainly makes you stand out in a crowd. Today I want to share Christin’s story to peach. It’s a perfect example of what steps it takes to go from a dark hair color to a light hair color, whether it is pastel, blonde, or even light brown.

Here’s what Christin looked like before we began:

In order to get a perfect pastel, the hair needs to be lightened as much as possible. Christin had been coloring her hair at home, so our first step was to lighten her existing color to pale blonde. It can be a delicate process to make this happen. You can never be sure if the color is going to lighten easily or with bands of color. That’s why I am a huge believer of test strands. This is where I take a small section of the hair and treat it with lightener to read how it will perform overall. It took a few applications, but it lifted pretty evenly giving me the result pictured below. You can see the lightened hair in contrast to her original color.

I then repeated the process on the rest of Christin’s hair. Again it took 3 separate applications of lightener to get to blonde. After each process I applied a protein based strengthening treatment to help maintain the hair’s health. Here is Christin at the end of the lightening process.

Next up, choosing a peach formula. This, too, can be a tricky process. I have two goals when I create this type of formula. First, it needs to be the peach my client has in mind. Color shades can vary drastically, so I want to ensure the results match the client’s expectations. Second, I want it to be set in the hair to give it the best longevity of color. Again, here is where I depend on test strands to see what my final formula will be.

Before applying the pastel formula on Christin’s hair, I applied another strengthening treatment. This infuses protein into the hair, in turn giving color molecules a place to embed and creating a longer lasting color. It’s a non-negotiable step that creates healthy, beautiful end results.

After the first color application, the pastel peach was pretty, but too light. This happens sometimes when laying color back into the hair. Sometimes color has to be laid in a couple of times to get a real, pure tone. Here is Christin after her first peach application.

We then went on to add a second layer of color. This application did the trick. We achieved an amazing color, but a little strong in intensity. Christin loved it and wore it for the next 6 weeks. Here’s how it looked.

When Christin came back to the salon 6 weeks later the color had lightened up. She decided this time she wanted to go for a softer peach. After tweaking her formula a bit, I loved the final color.

This color was beautiful. And because of the series of salon treatments performed on her hair, we were able to achieve the look while also ensuring her hair was in great condition. Christin has been peach for about 10 months now and gets tons of compliments on her look.

As you can see, this type of service is time-consuming. From beginning to end, our Intense Peach look took three appointments lasting 4 hours each time. I charge $100 per hour for this service, so if you do the math you quickly realize this is a big investment. Choosing to do this in a salon with an experienced stylist ensures that you will get the precise color you want and keep your hair shiny and healthy. I’ve seen many hair lightening “home jobs” and it’s not pretty. People who try the “do-it-yourself” route usually end up in the salon to get it fixed, so why not just do it the right way from the start?

If you are considering any type of color correction service, going from light to dark or dark to light, a consultation is imperative. If any stylist tells you he/she can perform this type of service in one day, I would go somewhere else. Remember when you are lightening hair from brown to blonde we are working with a fiber. There is only so much you can ask of that fiber in a short period of time. Slow, control lifting is the best way to get where you want to go and still have hair to show at the end of it. Ask your stylist if they have any pictures of clients who have received similar treatments so you can see the end results.

It’s also worth mentioning the value of salon treatments through any color process. Every time a chemical color service is performed on a hair strand, that fiber is weakened. Without protein based treatments, your hair will not survive the correction course and the color will fall out much more quickly.

Drastically changing your color can be a rewarding “feel good” event. Take the time to find a colorist who is experience in color correction. To help with the process, read my post How to Find Your Perfect Stylist. Then go for it! Changing your hair color can give you a new outlook on life and your identity. Embrace it!

Welcome To My Hair Fix

Welcome to “My Hair Fix”, a blog I have created to help provide education about your hair, your salon experience, hot tips and techniques to make your hair beautiful. After over 15 years in this industry traveling across the country and working in my salon I hear many of the same questions from clients regularly. Haircare is one of the fastest growing businesses in the country, this means that product technology, available services and styling tools are evolving and improving at a fast rate. If you aren’t submerged in the world of hair on a regular basis it can be tough to keep up.

This blog is designed to be a resource of education from someone who is submerged in the world of hair. I love it. I am fortunate to have amazing clients that inspire me every day and trust my vision for their hair. I have also worked with Redken as a design and color educator for 10 years. This experience has aligned me with a science based industry leader that I can continually learn from, staying on top of the latest hair innovations.

There is a lot of information about hair out in the world. Sometimes it’s difficult to differentiate between fact and fiction. There are some resources more valid than others. My intent is to empower readers with information to make educated choices about their hair needs. What are the best treatments on the market, new salon services pros and cons, quick home hair tips, how to find the right tools for your hair, and the best color options for your are just a few of the topics that will be covered. I love to answer questions and look forward to hearing what’s on your mind. Over time I hope to create a library of great hair information.

Now, read on. Let me know what you think. Stay in touch with email, Facebook or follow me on twitter. I am excited to see where we go!

Sincerely,

Mandy McCullough